Kayaking Halong Bay

In general, I like to arrange things myself when traveling; I've learned the hard way that I don't have the temperament for group travel. On the other hand, I'm inclined towards laziness when I'm on vacation. When it came to visiting Halong Bay, which features limestone karsts rising out of the Gulf of Tonkin--it's unlike any other sight on earth--my laziness prevailed and I booked a group tour. To travel there independently would have entailed a wait at the bus station, a 3 hour bus ride, a transfer of some sort to the ferry terminal, and then ferry to Cat Ba Island. Way too many transfers, tickets and waiting around. Agreeably, the tour included a direct pickup from my hotel and a night spent aboard a Chinese junk on the Bay itself.This meant, as I knew it would, putting up with a certain amount of continental European foolishness and way too much secondhand smoke. For instance, on the tour was a Spanish couple in their mid-sixties traveling with their ne'er do well 30something son, in grubby jeans reading bloody comic books. When I boarded the bus, the tour guide and the family were in quite a state because the slovenly son had left his passport at the hotel. Because Vietnamese law requires all tourists to present passports when visiting Halong Bay, he had to double back via taxi to retrieve it. Also on the tour was a group of Polish sisters, resembling several piglets gathered around one ostrich. Strategically, I formed alliances with some Flemish girls on holiday and young French students and spent a pleasant two days on the Bay. We visited an enormous cave in one of the limestone islands and kayaked among the islands, which was my favorite part of the trip.

In the morning, I awoke on the boat to the sight of the islands clothed in mists, very atmospheric. And then it was back to Hanoi for my last evening and some final shopping. With the last of my American currency (which everyone prefers to Vietnamese dong) I selected two silk ties, one lavender and one slate gray, for J. featuring frolicking kittens. Will he receive them upon my return or will he have to wait until Christmas? I haven't decided. I had a wonderful dinner consisting of sour fish soup, served in a pan simmering over a small burner, and caramel custard. For a nightcap, I returned to the bar that features traditional rice spirits for a glass of the apricot liquor. I couldn't resist buying a large bottle of it to drink in Cambodia and beyond. But the question remains: how will all of my purchases fit into my small backpack?

I have loved northern Vietnam in general and Hanoi in particular. It's prosperous and lively, full of gentle people and delicious food. I'm sorry to leave tomorrow--I could stay here for a very long time.