Langebaan, Western Cape
I was happy to get out of the city for the Cape Argus cycle race (Jackie and Elle, you've gotta do it one of these days--it looks amazing!) because the city swarms with cyclists (including Lance) and spectators and all the roads close. I rented a car and drove up the R27 to the West Coast, where it's peaceful and there are lots of lovely birds. I stayed at my very favorite guesthouse yet, Walking on Water. The owners, Magdel and Andre, took me in hand and made me a very specific itinerary of where I must go, what I must see, what birds I must spot, and where I must eat. It was very, very helpful. Since J. left, I've just been cooling my heels in Cape Town, and it's great to have someone tell me what I must do!
There are lots of picturesque fishing villages along the coast and restaurants where you can enjoy an Appletiser with a sea view.
Some of them reminded me of little Greek fishing villages, with whitewashed cottages lining the beach.On Saturday, Andre took me on a bird tour in and around the West Coast National Park. He is a former military man, and he approaches birding in a very strategic manner. We saw Verreaux eagles (huge eagles that stand a meter tall) pelicans, various types of cormorants, flamingos, lots of different types of plovers and my favorite, the very graceful marsh harrier (a big black and white raptor). Total, we spotted 80 species! The park boasts bird hides, little huts where you can observe the birds unseen.
One of the bird hides was jampacked with birders from Cape Town. They wanted to identify a weird godwit (large shorebird) one of them had seen. The bird in question was jostled by another bird, raised its wings to reveal the identifying dark underwing coverts and a cry broke out in the hut as they identified it as a Hudsonian Gotwit (endemic to Alaska / Canada). This poor bird had gotten in with the wrong crowd and wound up in the Western Cape. My conclusion: birders are totally weird, but I'm loving the birds!Dinner was a 10 - course fish braai on the beach at a restaurant called Die Strandloper. You sit in the sand and eat with your hands or mussel shells. A guy with a guitar plays Afrikaans ballads like De La Ray. It was so much food: I barely made it to crawfish (course 5). Where's J. when you need him?
Birds spotted: More than you want to know!Books: Noah's Compass by Anne Tyler. What's up with Anne Tyler and characters destined to die sad & alone?
watch out, you called the birders weird but you are turning into a crazy bird lady yourself! hahaha. glad you are enjoying all the birds of africa! and great pics, as always :)
ReplyDeleteYou are so right about that! I laugh at the birders and then I tell a long story about spotting a Hudsonian Godwit. Definitely nerdy!
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